3 Sept 2024

Ortisei, Northern Italy

As I have gone deeper into traveling, a wonderful offshoot has been discovering the joys of hiking. 

I remember my first ‘serious’ hike was in the Greek Isles in 2008 when my friend Joel and I thought it would be ‘cool’ to hike the 6.5 mile path from Oia to Fira in Santorini.

I consider it one of my most memorable hikes and still remember unbelievable images of rocky mountain paths and blue domed churches atop hills, wedged between the Santorini caldera on one side and the shimmering blue of the Aegean Sea on the other. Since then, I have enjoyed day hikes locally in the Hudson Valley, north of NYC, and in faraway places such as in Patagonia in Argentina, Nakasendo in Japan, and Montserrat in Spain. I have ventured on to do more challenging multi-day hikes with friends such as the Inca trail to Machu Picchu in Peru and the Milford track in the South Island of New Zealand. 

One of my aspirations has always been to go hiking in the Dolomites. It seemed like a place of incomparable beauty, almost dream-like in its aura. It has come to fruition with this Italian journey.

After a 5-hour train ride from Rome to the northern city of Bolzano, and another hour by bus, I reached Ortisei, a pretty town that doubles as a ski resort in the winter months and as an ideal hiking base for the Dolomites during warmer months. The Dolomites are part of the Italian Alps in South Tyrol, an autonomous region in Northern Italy. The region feels partly Northern Italian and partly German/ Austrian, and has three official languages – Italian, German, and the local Ladin dialect. Ortisei (Italian), for example, is also known as St. Ulrich (German) and Urtijei (Ladin). From Ortisei, a combination of cable cars, gondolas, and funiculars transports one from its charming downtown to the starting points of the hikes. 

For a few days, I went on three different hikes, one hike a day.  Seceda is arguably the most glamorous (and most popular) among the three, with the spectacular otherworldliness of the Odle/ Geisler mountains greeting you as soon as you arrive by gondola lift. The hike itself can be moderately challenging with quite a few uphill climbs, though always in the midst of gorgeous vistas.

On my second day, I went up to Alpe di Suise, riding one of the small red cable cars visible from my hotel room in Ortisei. This is a relatively easy but utterly delightful hike. Alpe di Suise is the largest Alpine meadow in Europe and has its abundant share of adorable rolling hills and cute little huts. The landscapes in this hike are probably one of the most beautiful I’ve ever encountered.

Rescieca, my third hike,  seemed the most basic, but felt the most authentic of the three – a no-frills, bare-boned, most meditative hike. In all three, I was rewarded with spectacular scenery and refreshing mountain air. The highlight of each hike was always a long idyllic lunch overlooking a beautiful scene in one of the refugios, charming little establishments serving food and refuge for hikers. 

From years of hiking, I have learned the value of good preparation. Having sturdy hiking shoes, sunblock, water and some nourishment are important. Hiking poles and a jacket or poncho may make the difference between enjoyment and misery. I must also add that I am always more cautious and careful when hiking solo. Of course, not everything will go as planned and having a mindset of being open to the unexpected is always helpful. These unexpected events may actually turn out to be the most memorable moments of the hike. One can’t also underestimate the impact of small acts of kindness from strangers – pointing us to the right direction, a smile or a word of encouragement, being there to take our photo at the most opportune time, or maybe being the only human presence for miles, which can assuage anxiety in profound ways.

The joy that hiking has brought me has been immeasurable, whether it be locally or in places I’ve only once dreamt about, whether I venture solo or with a group of friends,
our bonds forever tightened by these shared experiences. I am sure this joy is not lost on the many others who have discovered its magic. Hiking paves the way for us to enjoy landscapes beyond those that we’re used to. It provides an unmistakable jolt of excitement as we embark on new adventures,  while transporting us back to indelible memories from previous hikes, whether in Santorini or Machu Picchu or a favorite local trail. It teaches us to be present at a particular moment in time, as we learn to be more attuned to ourselves, from the speed of our paces, to the depths of our breaths, to the silent joyful contentment we feel in moments of pure enchantment.